What is natural dyeing
Natural dyeing (also known as natural dyeing or botanical dyeing) uses dyes obtained from plants, fruits, bark, roots, insects or minerals. Unlike synthetic dyes (acid dyes, fiber reactive), natural dyes are ecological, non-toxic and create unique, earthy shades that synthetic dyes can barely replicate.
Mordants — why they are necessary
Most natural dyes do not bond to fibre on their own — without a mordant, the colour will wash out. A mordant is a chemical substance that creates a bond between the fibre and the dye. You soak the yarn in a mordant solution BEFORE dyeing.
Alum (potassium aluminium sulphate) — the most common and safest mordant. Does not affect colour. Ratio: 10–15% of yarn weight.
Iron (ferrous sulphate) — darkens and saddens colours (saddening). Adds a greenish or grey tint. Ratio: 2–4% of yarn weight. Caution — too much iron makes fibre brittle.
Copper (copper sulphate) — shifts colours towards green. Toxic — handle disposal with care.
Traditional natural dyes
| Material | Colour | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Onion skins | Golden, orange | Easiest starting point — skins are free |
| Walnut shells | Brown, coffee | Strong dye, a small amount goes a long way |
| Avocado pits and skins | Pink, salmon | Surprisingly beautiful results |
| Indigo | Blue | Special process (reduction dyeing) |
| Beetroot | Pink (unstable!) | Washes out — not lightfast |
| Turmeric | Bright yellow | Intense, but fades in light |
| Black tea | Beige, brown | Subtle shade, easy to source |
| Nettle | Green, yellow-green | Use alum as mordant |
Basic process
Step 1 — Mordanting: Soak the yarn in an alum solution (10% of yarn weight dissolved in warm water) for 1 hour. Remove and do not rinse.
Step 2 — Dye bath: Simmer the raw materials (e.g. a handful of onion skins) in water for 30–60 minutes. Strain — the liquid is your dye bath.
Step 3 — Dyeing: Place the mordanted yarn into the dye bath. Heat to 80°C and maintain for 30–60 minutes. Leave to cool in the bath (slow cooling = deeper colour).
Step 4 — Rinsing: Wash in lukewarm water and dry flat.
Tips
The resulting colour depends on many factors — fibre type, water hardness, freshness of the raw material, simmering time and type of mordant. This is why natural dyeing is always a little unpredictable — every batch is one of a kind. Keep notes: what, how much, how long — so you can roughly reproduce the result.
